Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Boda bodas, taxis and the African way of walking

Getting from A to B in Uganda can really be quite an experience. The roads are pretty damn awful, it is hot and every ride in a minibus (called a taxi) seems to involve switching seats at least five times. (And I don't even know where to begin with the boda bodas).

So here goes. A run down on each of the three primary ways of transporting oneself in Uganda.

Walking: certainly the safest option in terms of being in control of how quickly one travels (such control non existent in taxis and almost non-existent on boda bodas). Having said that the general walking pace is slowwww (especially when compared to London walking pace). People really are on African time here.

Walking slowly is also a bit of a necessity given the complete lack of footpaths, street lighting and drainage systems and the complete abundance of potholes. It is really easy to fall over here (and yes I have fallen flat on my face on one occasion). Other hazards I have encountered when walking are crossing the road and the local crazy guy who hits me in the face whenever he sees me.

Taxis: as I mentioned taxis are actually minivans which operate via a 'semi bus like' system. They travel all over the place. To catch one, you flag it down on the side of the road. Once you have (1) checked the taxi is going where you need to go and (2) negotiated the price, the only remaining action is to squeeze yourself in (sometimes easier said than done). The taxis all have a sign painted on saying that they are licensed to carry up to 14 passengers. In reality around 20 are crammed in. The record I have witnessed is 23 (refer to photo taken inside a taxi to give you an indication). Uncomfortable to say the least. Other goods carried include chickens, raw fish, sugar cane and mattresses. The suspension in the vehicles is completely gone (due to the fact the drivers seem to go the same speed on both tar-sealed roads and pot-hole riddled dirt roads). It is possible to hit your head on the roof when the pot holes are particularly violent.

To get off the taxi you pay your fare and ask the conductor to stop at the next stage. Once the passenger has got off, the driver will commence tooting as he drives until the next passenger on the road flags down the taxi. While there is inevitably a lot of changing seats and stopping and starting, taxis do the trick and they are pretty affordable (although many Ugandans would disagree with me). The hour trip from Mukono to Kampala usually costs 2000 shillings (equivalent to 50p).

Boda bodas: finally but certainly not least are boda bodas. Bodas are motorbikes which are found absolutely everywhere here in Uganda. While more expensive than taxis, they are much quicker as you can get the driver to take you exactly where you want to go. They are also much more efficient to take in Kampala as the bodas can wind in and out of traffic to avoid the notorious traffic jams.

Like taxis, people and goods are crammed onto bodas. If I were a boy I'd probably be able to tell you what size engines they have (but I can't) but they aren't large motorbikes and it isn't uncommon to see a driver with three passengers passing by. We often take them with two passengers when visiting smaller villages where taxis don't go which is quite squished enough for me. It is also tricky for a female to ride bodas whilst wearing a skirt (although women here almost never wear trousers). Tradition requires one to adopt a side saddle type approach...which I always find a little nerve racking. The other major downside of bodas is that you either get covered in dust, or if it's raining, wet. I have also discovered that sun glasses are a must just to keep the dust and bugs out of my eyes.

While transport here leaves a lot to be desired, as a traveller I shouldn't complain, it is cheap, I'm not tied to bus timetables and I can get pretty much anywhere in the country. The biggest impediment to getting around easily here is the sorry state of the roads...

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